{"id":68675,"date":"2026-05-19T03:18:00","date_gmt":"2026-05-19T03:18:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/zealous.co\/about\/?p=68675"},"modified":"2026-05-11T17:23:02","modified_gmt":"2026-05-11T17:23:02","slug":"how-to-prepare-artwork-for-digitisation-a-guide-for-artists","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zealous.co\/about\/insights\/how-to-prepare-artwork-for-digitisation-a-guide-for-artists\/","title":{"rendered":"How To Prepare Artwork for Digitisation: A Guide for Artists"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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No matter how powerful your work is in person, a poor quality photograph can undermine your chances of being shortlisted before your application has even been properly considered.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Preparing your artwork for digitisation doesn’t have to be complicated, but it does require some care and attention. Whether you’re photographing a large canvas, scanning a delicate print, or capturing the texture of a three-dimensional piece, getting it right can make a real difference to how your work is received.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This guide walks you through everything you need to know to produce clear, accurate, and professional digital images, giving your work the best possible chance of making an impact.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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What is digitisation and why it matters<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Digitisation is simply the process where you record your work so it can be seen digitally. This could be by taking a photo, scanning it, or taking a video, for example.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In most application processes, a digitised version of your work will make the first impression. So how you capture it really helps to make sure it is received in the correct way. Are the colours showing as vibrant as you painted them? Can you see all sides of your sculpture? Does the photo do justice to the texture you created?<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Before you start<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Before you even pick up a camera or switch on a scanner, a little preparation can save you a lot of time and ensure your images are the best they can be.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cleaning and preparing the physical artwork<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Take a close look at your work before you begin. Dust, fingerprints, and smudges that are barely noticeable in person can become distracting in a photograph. Gently clean the surface of your work where appropriate, and if it is framed behind glass, consider removing it before photographing to avoid reflections. Make sure your work is fully dry if it is a recent piece, and that it is hanging straight or lying flat before you begin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Choosing the right equipment<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The two most common options for digitising artwork are a digital camera and a flatbed scanner. For smaller, flat works such as drawings, prints, or paintings up to A2, a good quality flatbed scanner will often produce the most accurate and consistent results. For larger works, or pieces with texture and depth, a digital camera is the better choice. A modern smartphone camera can produce good results in the right conditions, but a DSLR or mirrorless camera will give you greater control over quality and detail.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Understanding resolution requirements (DPI)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

DPI stands for dots per inch and refers to the level of detail in your image. Most open calls and artist prizes will specify a minimum DPI for submissions, commonly 300 DPI for print quality images. It is worth understanding what this means for your file before you submit, as an image that looks fine on screen may not meet the required standard. Always aim to capture at the highest resolution your equipment allows and reduce the size afterwards if needed, rather than trying to increase the resolution of a low quality image.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Checking the specific technical requirements of the opportunity<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Before you begin, read the submission guidelines carefully. Different opportunities have different requirements around file format, file size, image dimensions, and resolution. Some may ask for JPEG files under a certain size, while others may accept TIFF files for higher quality reproduction. Taking five minutes to check these details before you start could save you from having to reshoot or reformat your images at the last minute.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Capturing your artwork<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Taking the time to set up your shot carefully before you begin will make a significant difference to the quality of your final images. Rushing this stage is one of the most common mistakes artists make, and it often means having to start over.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lighting<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Good lighting is the single most important factor in producing accurate, professional images of your work. Natural daylight on a bright but overcast day is ideal, as the clouds act as a natural diffuser and produce soft, even light with no harsh shadows. If you are shooting in natural light, position your work facing the light source and avoid placing it in direct sunlight, which can bleach colours and create unwanted reflections.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you are using artificial lighting, the key is to ensure the light falls evenly across the surface of your work. Position two light sources at equal angles on either side of your work, ideally at around 45 degrees, to minimise shadows and reduce glare. Avoid mixing different types of light, for example using one window and one lamp, as this can cause uneven colour casts that are difficult to correct in editing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Camera settings<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you are using a camera with manual settings, a few adjustments can make a noticeable difference to the quality of your images. Set your ISO as low as possible, typically 100 or 200, to reduce grain. Use a mid range aperture such as f\/8 to ensure the entire surface of your work is sharp. Most importantly, set your white balance to match your light source rather than leaving it on automatic, as this will help ensure the colours in your image are as accurate as possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Keeping the camera parallel to your work<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

One of the most common issues when photographing artwork is distortion caused by the camera being at an angle to the work. Even a slight tilt can cause the edges of your work to appear uneven or the image to look skewed. Wherever possible, position your work flat on the floor or hang it on a wall and ensure your camera is directly in front of it at the same height as the centre of the piece. Use the grid feature on your camera or phone screen to help you align the shot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Using a tripod<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

A tripod is one of the most useful tools you can have when photographing artwork. It keeps your camera completely still, eliminates blur caused by camera shake, and allows you to take multiple shots from exactly the same position. This is particularly useful if you are photographing a series of works and need consistency across your images. If you don’t have a tripod, prop your camera on a stable surface and use the self timer function to avoid any movement when pressing the shutter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Photographing 3D or textured work<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Three dimensional and heavily textured work presents particular challenges when it comes to digitisation. Unlike flat work, these pieces have depth and surface variation that needs to be conveyed in the image. Experiment with the angle and direction of your lighting to bring out the texture and form of the piece, as light coming from one side can help create shadow and depth. It is also worth taking multiple shots from different angles to give selectors and judges a fuller sense of the work. Check the submission guidelines to see how many images you are permitted to submit, and use these to show the work as a whole as well as any significant details.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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File quality and formats<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Once you have captured your images, it is important to make sure you are saving and exporting them in the right format and at the right quality. Getting this wrong at the final stage can undo all the careful work you have put in during the shooting process.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Common file formats<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The three most common image file formats you are likely to encounter when submitting to artist prizes and open calls are JPEG, TIFF, and PNG.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

JPEG is the most widely accepted format for submissions and produces a relatively small file size, making it easy to upload and share. It does this by compressing the image data, which means some quality is lost in the process. For most submission purposes a high quality JPEG will be more than sufficient.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

TIFF files are much larger than JPEGs but retain all of the original image data without any compression. They are often preferred for archival purposes or where the highest possible quality is required. Some opportunities will specifically request TIFF files, so it is worth knowing how to export in this format.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

PNG files are less commonly used for photographic artwork but can be useful for work that includes text, graphic elements, or areas of flat colour, as they handle these particularly well without the compression artefacts that can affect JPEGs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

File size and resolution<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

It can be tempting to submit the largest, highest resolution file you have, but most opportunities will specify a maximum file size and it is important to stay within these limits. As a general rule, aim to export your images at the highest quality that falls within the stated requirements. If no specific guidance is given, a JPEG exported at high quality and a minimum of 300 DPI is a safe standard to work to.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Colour accuracy<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Colour accuracy is one of the most important and most frequently overlooked aspects of digitising artwork. What looks correct on your screen may appear very different on another device, particularly if your monitor is not calibrated. If colour is a significant element of your work, it is worth taking the time to check your images on more than one screen before submitting. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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